By Nom - 14 July 2024
Phang Nga On A Backpacker Budget
The Phang Nga province of Southern Thailand is a captivating destination that offers travellers a taste of both natural beauty and cultural authenticity. Phang Nga is a charming town which serves as the gateway to the renowned Phang Nga Bay, famous for its dramatic limestone karsts and emerald-green waters.
Phang Nga is a beautiful old town which is often overlooked by tourists who only pass through on their way to James Bond Island tours. Phang Nga Town boasts a relaxed, small-town atmosphere and is the perfect base for those seeking to experience something different and authentic as well as exploring the beauty of the Phang Nga Province and experiencing the warmth of Thai hospitality.
Sights In Phang Nga:
Stopping here for a day or two allows you to witness Thailand in way regular tourists rarely get to see. Besides the famous attractions, there are also fun things to discover in the area that haven’t yet been discovered by the masses. Another great advantage is that a lot of great things to do are budget friendly or even free. We visited Phang Nga and stayed for two nights, our mission was to explore and discover as much possible whilst adhering to a backpacker budget.
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Phang Nga town has a multicultural flavour, with mosques, Buddhist temples and Taoist Chinese shrines all found within walking distance of one another. Exploring the towns unique temples provides insight into the rich local culture.
The surrounding limestone karst cliffs and mountains make Phang Nga a scenic town with plenty of parks and caves to explore. Khao Chang, a karst mountain that soars dramatically upwards at a near 90 degree angle, forms the backdrop of the town to the southwest resembling a massive silhouette of a crouching elephant. Khao Chang has a symbolic significance in the region and appears in the provincial seal of Phang Nga.
Legand has it that a farmer mistakenly killed a domestic elephant thinking that it was one of the wild elephants that had trampled his crop. The elephant was speared and lay dead at the present site of Khao Chang which is how it get it's shape. Tham Phung Chang (cave - see below) is said to represent the stomach wound received from the farmer's spear and the two ivory tusks are represented by Khao Ping-Nga.
There are also bustling local markets and typical Thai restaurants where you can try authentic and tasty Thai food amongst friendly residents.
Route Planning - When planning your trip around the Phang Nga Province try to ensure you drive on Highway 4 which is also known as "The Road Of 100 Bends".
This bendy route is almost a destination in itself! Fun to drive with spectacular scenery on the way.
See our TikTok video here
Tham Phung Chang
Khao Chang is the location of the massive Phung Chang Cave. Entrance to this large natural cave is only by guided tour where visitors are led along a running stream partly by canoe, then bamboo raft and then wading in knee deep water. The guides provide head torches and we recommend wearing water shoes. The distance covered is 1.2km and the tour takes around an hour.
The cave is famous for several rock formations that really do resemble elephants, a crocodile, lotus flowers, fish, jellyfish and egrets formed from large lumps of carambola stone. There are also cavernous rooms, magnificent gold and red coloured glittering walls and massive stalagmites and stalactites. At the turning around point there is a rock formation shaped like a waterfall suspended in time.
Our teenagers loved the sense of adventure exploring the seemingly never ending cave system. At one point the guides turned off all of the lights so we could experience the inky darkness deep inside the cave.
There's a cauldron of rat-faced bats and Kitti’s hog-nosed bats, the latter being the world’s smallest known bat species and exclusive to Thailand.
The cave is open daily from 09.00 – 16.00 hrs. Tour fee: 500 baht/person. Unfortunately, you are not permitted to take photographs inside the cave. You can find Phung Chang Cave by walking from the town and you can arrange your visit directly with the staff at the entrance.
We visited early morning and we extremely lucky to see a troop of rare Stump-Tailed Macaques coming down from the mountain to retrieve the food that the groundkeepers had placed out for them at the mouth of the cave.
While you are in this area it is worth a quick walk through Jubliee Park which has an image of the revered monk Luang Pu Thuat and several elephant statues set against that backdrop of Khao Chang.
Wat Tham Ta Pan
This certainly one of the most unique and strangest original temples in southern Thailand. Located within easy walking distance of Phang Nga town, the site offers a journey through Buddhist Heaven and Hell with the latter depicted in graphic – and sometimes gory – fashion.
Make sure you climb to the top of the pagoda for breath-taking views of the town and Phang Nga Bay in the distance.
Somdet Phra Srinagarindra Public Park
This beautiful park is located in the middle of Phang Nga Town. From the parking area, the park is accessed through an impressive hole in the cliff. Once you are through this gateway you will find a large well maintained park surrounded by many caves and tunnels (Tham Ruesi Sawan and Tham Luk Suea Caves) that are easy to walk through and explore.
The stunning park is popular with locals for picnics, scattered over the park are picnic tables and some food stalls. The park is a great spot for keeping fit with a walking, running and cycling trail and fitness equipment for working out.
Whenever you find food, of course there are monkeys!
Tham Ruesi Sawan and Tham Luk Suea Caves
Two caves can be found in the park and we spent an hour exploring them. Tham Ruesi Sawan and Tham Luk Suea really are hidden gems and our teenage boys were delighted with the feeling of adventure, not knowing how far a cave would go back or where we would ‘pop out’ next.
There are cement walkways to guide you in and under the limestone karsts where we found streams and formations of stalactites and stalagmites.
The scenery is really quite stunning here and not advertised well enough. Some of the rocks formations here are as stunning rocks you see on the Phang Nga Bay Tour, the only difference being that they are not in the middle of the sea.
Mangrove Forest Park Walk
A short distance from Somdet Phra Srinagarindra Public Park we came across Mangrove Forest Park Walk. It is a small mangrove forest with a raised boardwalk. It has a lovely shady atmosphere and it was enjoyable to see an ecosytem in action.
Entrance is free and you only need 20 - 30 minutes here. It's worthwhile stop if you would like to see a mangrove forest up close.
Tham Sam Cave Drawings
Slightly north out of town we found Tham Sam Cave with it's drawings. This is a tiny park with a cave complete with old drawings adorning the walls. The park is beautiful and fine for a short stop.
Monkey Cave Temple - Wat Suwan Khuha
Monkey Cave Temple (Wat Suwan Khuha) is a hidden gem that beckons to be explored by adventurous travellers. This ancient cave temple is a mesmerizing fusion of natural wonder and cultural heritage and is most famous for its 15m long Golden Reclining Buddha and its playful macaque monkeys.
Dragon Cave Temple - Wat Praya Nakarach
This Wat is a stunning natural wonder that has captured the imagination of many visitors. Its beautiful and otherworldly interior, coupled with its fascinating history and cultural significance, makes it a must-see destination for anyone who loves exploring unique and beautiful places.
Dragon Cave Temple is actually a monastery and a place for meditation. It features an impressive limestone cave with huge stalactites built high up into a rocky limestone hill and you’ll find a very special atmosphere that is perfect for meditation and reflection.
Wat Bang Riang - Wat Rat Uppatham
Situated high up on a mountain this large and spread out temple complex with breathtaking views and numerous unique points of interest is well worth the visit. From the car park there is a short walk up a steep hill to the entrance. You will see a large bell shaped Chedi which is called “Phra Mahathat Chedi Phutthathambanlue”. The base of this massive Chedi is surrounded by golden Buddha images. Inside the temple is just as impressive as the outside, so don’t forget to go in and have a look around. The entrance fee is THB40 and you can hire a sarong or shawl if you are not dressed respectfully.
On the right hand side of the temple is a large viewing area where you can take in the stunning scenery of Phang Nga and the remarkable images of “Kwan Yin” and the massive seated Buddha further in the distance.
Kwan Yin is the Goddess of Mercy or Compassion and is very popular in Thailand because she is said to bring good luck. Just beyond the image of Kwan Yin is yet another impressive image, this image is of Phra Nak Prok a large Golden Buddha which is in a seated position under the seven headed serpent Naga.
Whilst the views of the surrounding mountains are absolutely stunning from the top, to fully appreciate the size of both these structures you will need to take a walk down the stairs. The climb back to the top is rather strenuous, especially the last section as the stairs are quite steep, but well worth the effort.
We spent an hour or more wandering around the temple and the grounds and we highly recommend it to other travellers.
When visiting a Buddhist temple, it's essential to dress modestly and respectfully. This means covering your shoulders, knees and midriff.
Wat Bang Riang Phra Ubosot Ruea Supan Hong - Just below Wat Bang Riang we found an amazing "Suphannahong" boat shaped temple which is definitley worth a short stop to admire this unusual structure.
The royal barge "Suphannahong" is known world-wide as a symbol of Thailand with both religious and royal meanings.
When visiting a Buddhist temple, it's essential to dress modestly and respectfully. This means covering your shoulders, knees and midriff.
Wat Bang Tong - Wat Maha That Wachiramongkol
This temple is famous the 95m high golden chedi the Phra Mahathat Chedi considered to be the highest in southern Thailand. Inside the chedi we were amazed at the intricate detailing adorning all of the walls and high ceilings. Surrounding the chedi on all four sides there is a square of covered walkways with various Buddha images.
Outside, there are 2 large statues: one of a standing Buddha and one of the revered monk Luang Phu Thuat.Photographs cannot accurately record the impressive scale of the golden pagoda.
The entrance fee is THB50 and you can hire a sarong or shawl if you are not dressed respectfully.
We spent an hour exploring the pagoda and surrounding grounds.
Dolomite Quarry - Tham Thong Lang, Thap Put District
A 'must see' stunning attraction.
This former Dolomite quarry has been reclaimed by nature, creating a unique and stunning landscape with turquoise blue water filling the quarry pit and boarded by a steep rock face one side and a pine forest the opposite side.
This transformation has made it a picturesque spot ideal for photography and relaxation.
The turquoise colour of the water is caused from the natural composition of the Dolomite and other minerals seeping into the water. For perfect photographs the sun must be out and during the afternoon is best.
No swimming is permitted as the quarry is 100m deep and there is no safety.
The Phang Nga Province is known for its rich geological resources, including limestone and Dolomite deposits. The quarry, now a tourist attraction, is a fascinating example of how industrial sites can be repurposed for tourism.
You can park beside the entrance and there is no fee to enter. There are several stalls outside selling food and drinks.
Only a short distance from Dragon Cave Temple on Highway 4.
Khao Nang Hong Viewpoint is only a short distance from Dragon Cave Temple on Highway 4.
For stunning lush mountainous views, be sure to check this out (The tower is closed but you can still enjoy the view).
Sa Nang Manora Forest Park is only a 15 minute drive from central Phang Nga Town. Located just off Highway 4, it's a perfect stop off on the way to or from Dragon Cave Temple.
It's a must visit if you enjoy nature and tranquility. The park is extremely well kept by the Rangers and entrance is free. Dogs are not permitted in the park.
There are several tables around the park for picnics. There's an easy to follow 2Km nature trail through the park and it is permitted to swim in the waterfall pools.
There is ample free parking, toilets and kiosks selling drinks and snacks.
Samet Nangshe Viewpoint
Watching the sunrise at Samet Nangshe viewpoint in Phang Nga is a stunning experience. The viewpoint offers a breathtaking panoramic view of Phang Nga Bay, with limestone karsts rising from the water and mangrove forests, creating a picturesque scene.
Samet Nangshe Viewpoint is a 45km drive south from Phang Nga. It is north of Phuket over the Sarasin Bridge. You can get there from Phang Nga by motorbike, rental car or taxi.
Sunrise is the best time for photographs although at any time of day the view is spectacular.
Read our complete guide everything about Samet Nangshe viewpoint
The White Buddha - Luang Por Than Jai is only a 20 minute drive from Sarasin Bridge which connects the Phang Nga Province to Phuket. It's worth a short stop on the way to Khao Lak or the other attractions in Phang Nga.
The White Buddha is perched on a hilltop overlooking the Phang Nga Province. You can park at Nern Khao View Talay Restaurant and take the short walk up to see the beautiful White Buddha and enjoy the stunning views. You can enjoy fantastic food and drinks on the way back down.
From The White Buddha you will be able to spot the Cheng Shui Zhou Si Shrine which is also worth a quick visit if you are already in the area.
See our TikTok video here.
James Bond Island, Panyee Island and Kayaking Lod Cave – Phang Nga Bay
These three famous attractions are usually included in extremely popular organised tours running from Phuket and Khao Lak and receive hundreds of visitors every day.
If you are staying in Phang Nga you are fortunate enough to be able to arrange your own longtail boat tour which may be budget friendlier with the added advantage of being there earlier and beating the crowds.
If you have your own transport you can drive to a small village-run local pier and hire a local boatman to take you on a tour of Phang Nga Bay visiting James Bond Island, Panyee Island and Lot Cave. You can be at James Bond Island at 08.30 opening time and beat the crowds.
We arranged our trip a couple of days before with Hanah Tour and we had an entire long-tail boat for THB 2,000. (Can take up to 10 persons) This was cheaper for us than an organised tour. Be aware though that if self-guiding you will need to pay the National Park entrance fee of THB300 each at James Bond Island and kayaking fee of THB300 each. If you require lunch at Panyee Village you will need to pay for this yourself. Hanah Tour can be contacted on whatsapp +66933906568.
James Bond Island is one of the most iconic islands in Phang Nga Bay, and the one most people like to visit. The island is so named as it featured in the 1974 James Bond movie ‘The Man With The Golden Gun’.
James Bond Island, or Tapu Island as it is known locally, is a tall and narrow limestone island shaped like a nail ("tapu" means nail in Thai). This shape was formed by millions of years of erosion by the ocean at its base, resulting in the nail-shaped island we see today.
It is a beautiful and unique place to see, and it is predicted that the island might soon collapse due to the ongoing erosion at its base, so check it out while you can.
At James Bond Island, you will also find the leaning mountains or Khao Phing-Kan, two pieces of massive rocks leaning and supporting each other, creating a small cave you can walk in between.
Panyee Island is another island that is a must visit in Phang Nga Bay, and it is unlike anything you've seen before in Thailand. Panyee Island is an old Muslim community of around 1,600 people descended from 2 seafaring families that came from Java in the 18th Century.
Within the same period that they migrated here, the law that limited land ownership solely to people of Thai national origin went into effect, and in order to evade that, the community started building houses on stilts and continued to expand into the bay.
There is an entire community of over 360 families, complete with a mosque, a school and a football field all built on stilts. You will be astonished strolling around the maze that is the crisscrossing streets of Panyee Island discovering restaurants, cafes and souvenir shops.
Some of the caves are extremely low and you will need to lie flat on your kayak in order to pass through. The most exciting part was passing through an extremely small opening in pitch darkness to emerge into a small, quiet cavern illuminated by sunlight through the ceiling.
Lot Cave is another popular attraction in Phang Nga Bay.
Lot Cave is a collection of small caves that barely surface above the water under a large limestone mountain. It is a popular place to go kayaking around and glide under these caves, full of amazing stalactites.
Where to stay in
Phang Nga
Phang Nga Town itself may not be as popular as some of the nearby tourist destinations, but it provides a convenient budget friendly base for exploring the surrounding attractions.
Phang Nga town is mainly built up along the main highway running North / South. There are plenty of accommodation options ranging from simple guest houses right inside the town to 5* resorts and villas on the outskirts.
We stayed at the budget friendly TP Place Hotel which had onsite parking and was easy walking distance from the attractions we visited in the town. We stayed in two rooms next to each other and they accommodated our request for one double bed and two single beds. The rooms were basic but had everything we needed for a quick sleepover in-between exploring the area. There were shops and restaurants within walking distance.
We also stayed at Rachawadee House which had onsite parking directly in front of your room and was easy walking distance to the attractions in town. The nightmarket is next to the guesthouse and breakfast can be located along the main road. There is a washing machine onsite. We stayed in two rooms, one with a double bed and one with twin beds. The rooms were basic but had everything you need for a sleepover after a long day exploring.
You may choose to stay at the mid-range priced 4* Le Erawan Phang Nga Hotel located just outside the main town with large, comfortable and clean rooms.
There is a great selection of inexpensive Thai restaurants dotted along the main highway. If you are looking for western style food there are great restaurants at the lakeside on Thetsaban Bamrung. We can highly recommend Raruen Bar and Bistro which serves Thai and European favourites with live music and great drinks.
The view from our balcony
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